The natives called it, “The Valley of the Flowers.” W.W. Alderson described the valley as, “one of the most beautiful and picturesque valleys the eye ever beheld, abounding in springs of clear water,” Alderson referred to it as “The Egypt…,” or “The garden spot…” “…of Montana;” this was well before the flowers were leveled, and the city of Bozeman was established in the valley by one of the city’s founders, W. W. Alderson. Nevertheless, the valley’s beauty is still very much present. At least in Bozeman, the founders flattened the valley’s natural beauty to build such a beautiful city.
By the time I discovered Bozeman for myself, it was no longer a kept secret, people were moving to the valley of the flowers from all over. Bozeman is among the fastest-growing communities in the country, its growth has been remarkable. It dawned on me, after spending time in the northern states, and particularly in Bozeman, that in the southern states, where I grew up, people tend to browse, they’ll get ready for the day and spontaneously see where the day takes them, however, in the northern states, people tend to call ahead. This is especially true of Bozeman, a reality that took me some time to adapt.
Wandering the city streets, obviously adapting still to calling ahead, I discovered many hidden coffee shops and bakeries, unique restaurants, breweries, and pubs, of course, most of the places weren’t open for business at the time but I made a mental note and have since called ahead. One of the restaurants is a little eatery hidden off Main Street, Cateye Café. It’s become my new favorite Boseman breakfast spot. Cateye Café has the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve ever had. My experiences at Cateye made it easier to remember to call ahead.
When I spend the day in Bozeman, I usually park on Babcock Street, a block from Main Street, I hit one of two coffee shops. Wild Joe’s has a large, unique menu, and I like to try something different when I’m there. Wild Joe’s, however, is always brimming with college students; It’s a favorite hang-out and study spot for kids attending Montana State University (MSU). Although I’m aware making a good cup of coffee takes time, I’ve never waited longer for my coffee than at Wild Joe’s. I prefer Rockford Coffee. Rockford is a few blocks east of Wild Joe’s, also on Main Street. Rockford Coffee has a much more modernistic vibe, it can feel drab and a bit cold, but it’s quieter and more pleasant than Wild Joe’s, and the coffee is just as good.
I’ve made several attempts at enjoying myself while walking along Bozeman’s Main Street, downtown, despite several great restaurants: Bacchus Pub, Revelry, Jam, Burger Bob’s, the Rocking “R” Bar, Mackenzie River Pizza, Co., Sweet Peaks Ice Cream, and a couple of cool shops like Vargo’s Jazz City & Books and Montana Trail’s Gallery, Main Street doesn’t impress the curiosity in me; it is, definitely, aesthetically appealing, and during the summer months, the city shuts Main Street down to traffic for Music on Main on the evenings, and everyone in town comes out for the music and for the food. Still, for the most part, aside from the food and the façade, I don’t know what to do downtown except perhaps to sit and people-watch, which isn’t entirely unpleasant.
My favorite parts of Bozeman are the historic neighborhoods north and south of Main Street. There are some beautiful, historic homes on the Founders and Presidents Streets, between Main Street and the MSU campus. I like to walk without direction in the neighborhoods, turning down a side street at will. I always seem to end up at Cooper Park. Many homes in the area have historical significance and are listed on the historic registry, with plaques displayed outside each. There is a lot of exploring outside Bozeman. A national forest, a National Park, hiking trails everywhere, and campgrounds littered between. Bozeman has unlimited possibilities for hiking, camping, fishing, and good old-fashioned exploring. When in Bozeman it’s important to remember that it’s a driving town, and the best, and most unique places are throughout and beyond the city, and sometimes hidden on side streets surrounded by residences.
On one beautiful afternoon in Bozeman, I parked next to Soroptimist Park off of Rouse and Main Streets, and I started walking the downtown streets looking for a new restaurant or a brewery that I hadn’t been to. I walked up and down Main Street twice, nearing the east end, again, and I felt compelled inside Sweet Peaks Ice Cream shop. I ordered a Bear Scat ice cream in a waffle cone—mmm, Bear Scat—and sat under a tree outside of the ice cream parlor, in one of the least comfortable-looking chairs I’ve ever seen, the chair ended up being one of the most comfortable. I sat watching Main Street, and Soroptimist Park. I could have sat there all day, enjoying the beautiful afternoon.
And then I started walking west, again, and stopped at Rocking “R” Bar, and I got there just before the early afternoon rush, and in time to get a table on the patio. I ordered a drink and a burger, and extended my afternoon well into the evening, nursing my drink and people-watching; after eating, what was a slightly above-average burger for Montana, the burger might have been “amazing” anywhere else. The burgers in Montana have been consistently great, regardless of where I eat.
As I was walking back to my car, I stopped and read a historical marker fastened to the brick wall of one of the businesses—there are quite a few of these in Montana, on buildings, and in front of historic residences. The marker stated that Bozeman became popular for the arts, specifically for the theatre. One of the nicer hotels constructed an elevated path from the hotel to the playhouse so the theatergoers wouldn’t get their shoes and dresses muddied as they walked the unpaved streets.
The mud wasn’t ideal for the increasingly popular art scene or the wealthy theatergoers, so the city called for, what turned out to be a bit of an ireful meeting, held among city officials to decide what to pave the streets of Bozeman with, one man, after quieting the aggressive officials, cried out, “For God’s sake pave the streets with something!” After which, I imagine cooler heads prevailed, and in 1908 the streets of Bozeman were paved, leading Bozeman into the 20th century—by way of the arts. I’ve read a bit about Bozeman, and the city has a very turbulent, or perhaps merely odd, history and though there may not be a great deal of pride in history, there is, without a doubt, a great deal of spirit.
A single afternoon in Bozeman is not nearly enough time. If you do want to spend some time exploring the city and have the opportunity to get to know Bozeman, there is a lot to like about the Valley of Misappropriated Flowers. Don’t make the mistake of thinking the best of Bozeman is downtown because you’ll miss out on the most quality places: Sidewinders American Grill, Plonk, Wild Crumb, Feed’s Café, Hop Lounge, Freshies Café, The Ponderosa Social Club, the Valhalla Meadery, MAP Brewing Co., Feast Raw Bar & Bistro, and the Museum of the Rockies, all of which are a bit off the pilgrim’s path, but this will likely be where you will find the real Bozeman, in part because you will have to explore the raw domestic streets where the most beautiful flowers do, in fact, still flower.