The Hungry Horse Restaurant was dimly lit, tables had been moved from near the windows for a dance floor, beer was packed on ice, and the band, Morning, was about to kick the night off. We always managed to get a table front and center. Dr. Bud, my orthodontist, and Morning’s lead singer and guitar player jumped from chair to table to chair, the feel of the vinyl red and white checkered tablecloth sticky with spilled beer under his tennis shoes. He was singing some classic rock tunes. Every time Morning played at the Horse my family was there, and those nights are some of my most memorable (and best) childhood experiences.
That’s what the Hungry Horse Restaurant is for me. Southern comfort food, music, laughter, family, friends, and the best bran muffins I have ever had. I had a hard time deciding between the Chicken Fried Chicken (or Steak) and the famous Bean Burger, I almost always washed whatever I ate down with the sharp tickle of something orange and carbonated. Back then the Hungry Horse had two locations in San Antonio, Texas. They have since closed one and moved the other to Boerne, Texas (not far from the Alamo City). Boerne, Texas has consistently been among one of the most rapidly growing towns in the country, and for good reason (as unpleasant as it might be for the locals). Boerne is known for antiquing, microbreweries, its proud German heritage, and the family-owned, southern-style eatery, The Hungry Horse.
Everyone in and immediately outside of Boerne is familiar with the Hungry Horse Restaurant. This is comfort food at its finest and with massive portions. The most popular item is the Chicken Fried Steak, followed by the Chicken Fried Chicken and, my favorite, the Bean Burger (made with beef, beans, Fritos, and smothered with cheddar cheese). Some people stop in for only one of their homemade pies or an order of a dozen (or more) bran muffins. You get what you pay for at Hungry Horse and more. The catering menu can be compared to even the nicest fine-dining restaurants, I can’t think about it without imagining the Chicken Tenders with Poblano Cream Sauce.
The owner’s name is Steve. My family moved down the street from him when I was seven, his family have been longtime family friends, and I practically grew up at the Hungry Horse Restaurant. Bussing tables and washing dishes at the Horse was my first job. Much of what I appreciate about food came from my experiences at the restaurant, including allowing myself to splurge on foods I would otherwise never eat. The Hungry Horse Restaurant does not have the healthiest of menus, but every time I go back to Boerne it doesn’t feel like home until I walk through those doors. Steve takes care of his employees, and he takes care of his customers, he’s a community pillar that has helped forge the identity of this amazing Hill Country town. A town you cannot experience and appreciate until you’ve eaten at the Hungry Horse. When you stop by, say, “Hello,” to Steve for me, and don’t forget the bran muffin.